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Thread Guide: What to Use and When

Guideschedule7 min readHand & Lock

Thread Guide: What to Use and When

A practical guide to embroidery threads: stranded cotton, crewel wool, silk, perle cotton, and more.

The thread you choose affects everything about your embroidery: the texture, sheen, weight, and durability of the finished piece. Here's a practical guide to the most common embroidery threads and when to use each one.

Stranded Cotton (Floss)

  • ●*What it is**: Six loosely twisted strands that can be separated and recombined.
  • ●*Brands**: DMC, Anchor, Cosmo
  • ●*Best for**: General surface embroidery, cross stitch, most beginners' projects
  • ●*Advantages**: Huge colour range (500+), inexpensive, widely available, versatile (use 1–6 strands to vary weight)
  • ●*Limitations**: Not very hardwearing for items that will be laundered frequently

Crewel Wool

  • ●*What it is**: Fine, 2-ply wool yarn made specifically for embroidery.
  • ●*Brands**: Appleton's, DMC Tapestry Wool
  • ●*Best for**: Crewelwork, textured designs, warm/rustic aesthetic
  • ●*Advantages**: Beautiful matte texture, excellent coverage, blends well for shading
  • ●*Limitations**: Attracts moths, not suitable for very fine detail

Silk Thread

  • ●*What it is**: Filament or spun silk thread.
  • ●*Brands**: Au Ver à Soie, YLI
  • ●*Best for**: Fine work, luxury pieces, goldwork accents
  • ●*Advantages**: Beautiful sheen, takes dye superbly (vivid colours), very strong for its weight
  • ●*Limitations**: Expensive, more difficult to work with (slippery), light-sensitive

Perle Cotton

  • ●*What it is**: A twisted, non-divisible thread with a distinctive sheen.
  • ●*Brands**: DMC Perle, Anchor
  • ●*Best for**: Decorative borders, Brazilian embroidery, hardanger, bold effects
  • ●*Available sizes**: 3 (heaviest), 5, 8, 12 (finest)
  • ●*Advantages**: Consistent thickness, good sheen, hardwearing
  • ●*Limitations**: Cannot be divided, so you can't vary weight as freely as stranded cotton

Metallic Threads

  • ●*What it is**: Synthetic or real metal fibres, often blended with other materials.
  • ●*Best for**: Goldwork, accents, festive or ceremonial pieces
  • ●*Advantages**: Catches the light like nothing else
  • ●*Limitations**: Can be difficult to work with (stiff, fragile, can abrade), requires special needles

Choosing Your Thread

Project TypeRecommended Thread
First projectStranded cotton
Crewelwork cushionCrewel wool
Fine silk shadingSilk thread
Bold decorative piecePerle cotton
Formal/ceremonialMetallic + silk
Cross stitchStranded cotton

Working Tips

  • ●Thread length: No longer than 18 inches / 45 cm. Longer threads wear and tangle.
  • ●Needle match: Thicker threads need larger needle eyes. Wool needs chenille or crewel needles; perle cotton needs chenille needles for thicker weights.
  • ●Stripping: When using stranded cotton, always "strip" individual strands and recombine them. This gives smoother stitches than using strands straight from the skein.
  • ●Conditioning: Run thread through beeswax or Thread Heaven to reduce tangling, especially with silk and metallic threads.
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